|The BFL2010 Bike Light||To to the HahnTronix Bike Lights Web Page|
This page was last updated on: 11/30/10.
The BFL2010 is the brightest LED bike light I sell.
It uses a pair of CREE MC-E LEDs or a pair of Luminus Devices SST-50 LEDs.
The MC-Es are rated to produce at least 750 lumens each, I derate a light using 2 of them to 1300+ lumens.
The SST-50s are rated at 1000 lumens each, I derate a light using 2 of them to 1800+ lumens.
These lights put out a level of light approaching what a car headlight puts out.
The beam has a fairly wide central hot spot, with a wide generously lit spill on the sides.
It is designed to be mounter on your handlebars.
The standard model of the light comes with the light head, handlebar mount, a 4 ft extension cord (coiled cord available as an option),
a 9.6 Volt 4.6 AH battery pack, UL approved battery charger, and several velcro straps for mounting the battery pack and extension cord to your frame.
Pricing for the whole package can be found at: How to Order Lights
For folks who want to build their own battery packs, the BFL2010 light head is available seperately (includes handlebar mount and connectors).
How do I attach my light and batteries to my bike?
Some people have wondered how to attach the light and battery pack to their bicycles.
So I figured I'd whip up a page that shows some of the techniques I've used.
A few of these may not look like they would hold up for long, but they will.
I include sticky back foam pads that you can peel and stick to the back of the battery.
With a couple of velcro straps, you can secure the battery to about anything.
Because of a neck injury last year I'm not a wild, jump off rock ledges in the darkness, kind of mountain biker any longer. At least not till my neurosurgeon says it's OK. I do however still log hundreds of hours each summer riding bike patrol in Minnewaska State Park and the Mohonk Preserve. Some of the trails, while not very technical, offer me the chance to bounce my bike over lots of obstacles. I take along my lights and a battery pack on every ride I do. None of the mounting schemes I show on this page have ever failed.
Some of my local customers are pretty hard core mountain bikers. The only time I heard about one of them dropping a battery was when he cracked his frame during a bad landing. Luckily rider and lighting system were unhurt.
Here's a shot of a fully rigged bicycle.
On a "standard" frame bicycle, I usually mount a headlight and tail light as shown above. The battery is velcroed to a battery bracket (another accessory) that bolts to your seat tube where you would sometimes put a water bottle. The bracket is very lightweight, but you could also just use a water bottle cage. This approach may not work on newer full suspension mountain bikes, you'll need to be creative.
The above shot shows how to leave a bit of slack in your power cable so you will be able to make a right hand turn without pulling the cable connectors apart, or breaking the cable.
Here's an example of using the water bottle cage on your down tube to hold the battery.
The above picture also shows a possible use of my heavy coiled cable accessory. The black bands are holding the cable to the frame are velcro wrap bands (hooks on one side loops on the other). I include a couple of one foot strips with each light. This should be enough for at least 4 decent loops for holding cable in place.
I also will include half a dozen black UV resistant zippy ties (cable ties) in your order for another $1. Some folks like to semipermanently fix the cable to their bike.
Here's an example of just velcroing your battery pack to your top tube.
The battery doesn't look very straight in this picture because I was rushing to get a bunch of pictures done before family showed up for Thanksgiving.
Using the foam and velcro straps I include with each full light kit, you can mount your battery pack almost anyplace you can find a straight piece of tubing that you can get the 12 inch long velcro straps around.
Here's an example mounting the BFL2010 on your helmet.
I'm not sure why you would need this, but somebody asked. I've used this technique on smaller lights I've made, but never on the BFL. It should work, I'll have to go hit the rail trail next dry evening and see how it works.
The trick to this method of helmet mounting is a wedge of closed cell foam tucked under the light. The back bezel keeps the strap in place and the front bezel keeps the foam in place.
I'm also working on a helmet mount using a Mawri Bike Lights helmet mount. These are available several places but the place I like the best so far is here. I'm working on a new design for my BHL2010 helmet light and will probably offer the Mawri mount as an option. Whatever mount I come up with should work on the BFL as well.
Some teaser photos of the new mount.